Friday, January 23, 2009

Bye Bye India hello S.E Asia




Well we finally got out of India without contracting aemobic dysentry which is amazing considering the filthy state everything is in. Kinda summed up by our sheer joy at getting to Macky Dees in Delhi on the last day :) We got on the plane after 2 months of pretty hardcore travel and felt like it was time to split. We flew into Bangkok and were greeted at the Airport by my good friend Paul. We stayed with Paul, Tracey and little Josh for a couple of days in their lovely apartment, 17th floor overlooking the Bangkok skyline.
Man, that first beer on the balcony watching the sun go down was just perfect :) After India, Thailand seems so immaculately clean I think we spent 2 days just grinning at everything and eating everything in sight ! Paul introduced us to the Singha Tower - 3 litres of Bangkok's finest poured into a tube with a central ice core and a tap at the bottom.
It was great to be in a proper home' again and fun to watch little Josh (whose nickname in Thai is Little Elephant). He is such a cute baby and already attracting attention from all the Thai ladies whenever he heads out of the door.
Tracy took Diane to a luxurious spa where they both were pampered and enjoyed a fabulous massage which cost buttons (Diane now wants to live in Bangkok!)
After topping up on all the lush thai food and getting all our gear clean again we sorted out our next little jaunt, a couple of weeks in Laos then back to Bangkok for a long weekend in Ko Chang with Paul and his family.
We left by overnight coach to Chiang Mai, really great place, way smaller than Bangkok with great day and night markets. After a tour of the town and a good nights kip we hired a scooter and blasted into the hills; really awesome forests and hills and real wilderness, we were crouched over the scoot crawling up the hills, willing the thing not to conk out but it was worth the effort. Diane was over the moon to find a fantastic local bakery and we worked our way through cinnamon whirls, coconut rolls, croissants, pineapple upside down pudding!
We got a minibus up to Chiang Kong, on the border with laos. First view of the mighty Mekong River !!! Really conjures up images of all sorts of films you've seen and more, so beautiful and yet the events of the past are there in the background.
We met a great bunch of people in the guest house who were all on the slow boat to Luang Prabang, a town 2 days ride down the Mekong. It was a real early start and a couple of Aussie lads Jez and Adam looked like they were gonna ensure a real enjoyable 2 day boat party and they didn't disappoint. What a laugh everyone stacked up on beer lao and spirits once on the Laos side and we were all knocking it back by 10.30 in the morning waiting for the boat. Once everyone piled on the boat, that was it, we just floated down the Mekong laughin and jokin, watching the world go by. Every now and then a speed boat would shoot past, this was basically a small missile shaped long tail with a V8 strapped to the back, taking 6 intrepid passengers with helmets on clinging to their seats (and their dear lives!)
On the boat was a young American Opera Singer (a real luvvie character with a huge smile) and he kept us entertained joined by 4 Argentinian girls who played guitar and sang along with the everpresent Ozzies who got everyone to sing their National Anthem. It was like a floating cabaret.
We stopped off in the evening and clambered up the bank into a little riverside place whose name escapes me (Pak Beng, thank you Diane). All the power was from little gennies that chugged away at the back of each guest house, i was pretty tired from the all day sesh on the boat so a papaya salad and a coconut curry was as much as i could do before me and di crashed out. We left the Aussies in the bar.
Morning saw a mist over the river that slowly cleared and by 9.30 we were off again. Surreal watching the landscape slip by, thick jungle giving way to cultivated fields, people panning for gold on the sand banks. Rocky cliffs and caves, with waterfalls and forested hills everywhere. We arrived in Luang Prabang at about 5 and eveyone piled into the town. Got a lovely guest house and headed for food. This place is like something out of disney world, so picturesque with temples, markets, resturants and bars, all the streets with little lights twinkling so peaceful. We had a good next day walking around the town and ended up down on the riverside, nice to get some peace and quiet, the locals' veggie patches all along the river, chaps fixing their boats, all the day to day river action - really sweet.
It is bringing back lots of happy memories for Diane of her travels with Martine a couple of years ago and yes Martine the 'sticky rice and mango' and 'banana pancakes' are still delicious :)
Everyone from the 'boat party' met up on the top temple at 6 to watch the sun go down, panoramic views all around and you really got the feeling that actually you're in the middle of bloody nowhere !! the forested hills with a mist drifting off the Mekong and the sun just dropping off the edge, you get the picture( you will when i post it !)
Well enough of that we got down from the temple and went for some street food, nice papaya salad, sticky rice and a whole fish spatch cooked on the barbie - just pukka with a big Beer Lao. We caught up with Alex and Adam who have continued drinking continuously for the past 3 days with no sign of a let up, thats my boys, i think they are just off to smoke a bag of opium so the morning will reveal their state, we're off to bed !!

Monday, January 12, 2009

Jaisalmer Camel Safari


Will add blurb later :)


































Rat Temple near Bikaner

So here's the story. In this bizarre part of India they have a Lord of all scuttling things and the dedicated temple is located just outside Bikaner. Its a fairly sorry little one horse town. After removing our shoes to enter (Diane put my spare pair of socks over her own socks !!) We've never seen anything quite like it, rats everywhere. In the inner circle only the devotees are allowed, let me tell you we had no problem with that whatsoever. Basically the devotees lie on the floor, eat from the offerings that the rats have also been eating from and let the rats run all over themselves, thats good luck. We never stopped long enough to get lucky :) After 30 minutes we were back on the bus and after getting back to town Jonny recovered by having a shave at one of the roadside barber shops, nice work and good way to take my mind off rats !














Phalodi and the Demoiselle Cranes
























































Jodhpur











We have absolutely no idea what this is the god of!!
Suggestions on a postcard please!!!







The blurb explaining these photos is in the Jodhpur post a little later :)



























































Thursday, January 1, 2009

Udaipur for new year
























































Well thats New Year out the way and a big Happy New Year to everyone.

Felt a bit like Charlie Boorman in 'By any means' getting to Udaipur in Rajasthan. We left Varkala and arrived non stop 32 hours later via and in order tuk tuk, local train, tuk tuk, boeing 737 from Kochin to Mumbai (delayed 3 hours), Air bus something or other from Mumbai to Ahmedabad, ambassador taxi (1979 model with dodgy brakes), sleeper coach, tuk tuk !!

Once you had entered the airport to catch a flight you were not allowed to step out of the terminal so we felt like Tom Hanks in the film. It was really frustrating as we were subjected to endless repetitions of Christmas Carols played on the sittar. Man were we ready for a shower and a few cold beers after that epic journey but it was worth it.

Fantastic place we hired a Vespa and went all over the town and up a nearby mountain with a dilapidated palace on top. Jonny was just like a local weaving in and out of the traffic between cows, tuktuks, buses, cars and pedestrians. Diane tried sitting side saddle on the back like the local Indian ladies but gave up and just clung on for dear life.

Udaipur has the big posh hotel in the middle of the Lake as featured in James Bond's Octopussy. We thought of staying there but as it costs a minimum of 500 dollars per night we settled for a room with a lake view in the old part of town.

Really arid terrain dry as bone, hot in the days and cold at night so it was woolly hats at midnight as we sat on the highest rooftop restaurant watching the fireworks all over the city.

Hotel and food great and a real taste of Rajasthan action. We are heading for Jodhpur on the 8.00 bus in the morning so its 8pm local time beer o'clock in any other language :)